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As dawn breaks, the port is bustling with boats full of fish and seafood. The ship’s whistle sounds loudly, the owners of motels and restaurants are busy, looking back and forth at their phones waiting for calls from faraway guests.
DISTANT ISLAND SCENT
The Nam Du archipelago is located off the coast of the Gulf of Thailand, in Kien Giang province, and has emerged in recent years as a new destination that still retains its pristine beauty with long white sand beaches embracing green coconut trees in the murmur of the emerald green sea.
But next to the picture of the sea is another corner, more rustic and closer: the life and people of Nam Du.
A morning is probably like any other day for the people of Nam Du. Next to the tourists carrying their bags are cargo compartments sent from the mainland to the island.
But it seems that the presence of tourists does not disturb the lives of the people here.
Leaving the port, I followed the landlord back to my room to put my things away, while walking, I was absorbed in observing the surrounding scenery without paying attention to what he said. After putting away my things, I quickly returned to the port to “walk” around the small village.
On this island, people do not grow anything or produce anything significant, except for caught seafood. But only a few houses have switched to renting rooms or restaurants, the rest still cling to the sea, clinging to the long-standing fishing profession.
Along the wharf are carts selling all kinds of snacks, although not as many as on the mainland, but still considered quite rich for the islanders.
A fruit stall with many types of fruits typical of the West. Nearby is a bakery shop whose name I do not know. The sounds and invitations of the street vendors are still in my ears, but the aroma of fruit and freshly baked cakes are overwhelmed by the characteristic smell here: the smell of dried green bone fish.
Dried fish stall by the beach
Stalls with lots of dried fish and dried squid
Fruit carts on Cu Tron Island wharf
On this small island, you can see blue bone fish everywhere. Blue bone fish has jade green bones and white meat. When drying, people add a little chili to make the fish have a mild spicy taste.
The bamboo mats are full of blue bone fish drying on the embankment, occupying part of the road in the port area. Regardless of men or women, people quickly arrange fish, dry fish and occasionally go to the island to let the fish dry evenly in the sun.
Our lunch cannot be without this fish dish, the only difference is that instead of using dried fish, I get to enjoy fresh blue bone fish with the fragrant smell of the sea.
The restaurant overlooks the sea, everyone sets tables on the sidewalk and silently watches the flow of people passing by. The whole island hamlet has only the road next to the sea as the busiest. Shops are mixed together, serving both tourists and islanders.
The best are the dried food stalls displaying a variety of gifts from the sea: blue bone fish, dried squid, anchovies, pickled shrimp… If you have a camera handy, you can capture a colorful picture of a myriad of dried foods, creating impressive frames.
Sea urchin fishermen with their harvest
Peaceful in the middle of the ocean
We left the port to visit the surrounding small islands. Not crowded with fishing boats, Nam Du archipelago is quieter than many other fishing grounds. Occasionally, we saw a few small boats catching sea urchins near the rocks.
At the beginning of the season, the sea urchins that the locals call sea urchins have a much more delicious taste.
Coming ashore at Hon Mau, one of the most beautiful small islands in Nam Du archipelago, everyone was drawn to the clear blue sea and the breathtaking scenery.
I followed the small road to the fishing village located close to the sea. Perhaps because there had been no big storms for 21 years, the people were “at ease” living so close to the coast. The scenery of the fishing village was as beautiful as a painting, the beauty of working life.
On one side was the beach with shady banyan and coconut trees, where children were running around playing before being taken home by their mothers. On the other side are houses of all shapes and sizes, lying silently in the sound of waves and wind.
On the porch, women weave nets for the new crop.
Small boat carrying goods from the big island to Hon Mau
Dinner with grilled dishes on Cu Tron Island
The scene appeared so peaceful: women weaving nets on the porch, men cutting wood, packing furniture by the sea. On the small dock were boats carrying goods back and forth between the islands.
Cu Tron Island was difficult, Hon Mau was even more remote. Students here had to take a boat to Cu Tron Island to go to school. The sea space was beautiful but still evoked sadness and nostalgia.
We left Hon Mau Island as night gradually fell on the Nam Du archipelago. Cu Tron Island was immersed in darkness, leaving behind the glowing red firelight of the grilled food stalls. A few sea urchins grilled with scallion oil, a few clams, and mussels were enough for a delicious dinner.
The night on Nam Du Island was quiet, the whole sky was woven with sparkling stars. Looking at the sky, we knew that tomorrow would be another sunny day.
Another Day
The dawn has risen and a new day has begun on the Nam Du archipelago. Before leaving the port to board the boat back to the mainland, we stopped by the gate of An Son Primary School and stopped at a children’s breakfast stall.
The presence of tourists did not make the children more curious. There were still toy stalls like when I was a child, a few breakfast stalls and a crowd of children gathered around. Bustling, bustling…
The school bell had just rung, the students were calling each other back to class, returning the quiet space to the school gate.
Children eat breakfast before school
We took the opportunity to chat with an elderly man who was having breakfast and then walked to the port. The new ship had just docked, we boarded, and Cu Tron Island gradually receded in the sunlight of the new day.
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